9 Top of the World Highway to Tok, Alaska Recorded Thursday June 11th 2009
Recorded Thursday June 11th 2009
On Tuesday June the 9th we had a significant day for several reasons. It ended our 3rd week on this road trip and began our first day in Alaska. It was a couple of other firsts as well. It was the most hair raising and dirtiest to date as well!
Our original route north was to stay on the Alaskan Hwy to Tok, some 1,500 plus miles northwest to Fairbanks. We were going to avoid the longer more difficult route via Dawson City as we had been there 3 years earlier but after arriving at Whitehorse and having 2 days to rest Bill decided he was up for the Klondike Hwy to Dawson City and therefore the Top of the World (Taylor) Hwy to Tok. This is a much more scenic, interesting route as well as unpaved roads, washboards, heaves, potholes, a ferry across the Yukon and a general pain in the but. Billy said OK. I had my doubts but off we went. He lived to regret his choice! It was a rough day of driving and an hour wait for the tiny little ferry to cross the Yukon River in Dawson City but he somehow survived it in spite of his disagreeable nature, I somehow survived too!
As the ferry landed on the western side of the Yukon River a fox sat there to greet us as we drove off. He is known in the area as word had gotten around about his presence. Bill M. gave him ham which he ate out of his hand. As we bounced along the next 100 or so mostly unpaved miles I realized why they called this highway ‘The Top of The World”. It was quite amazing. Most of the time we were on the ridge line looking out on both sides. We could see for many miles in all directions the mountain ranges, hills and valleys. This went on and on. Poor Billy was stuck swerving and making the switchbacks while avoiding all the junk in the road but I was awestruck. There were some white knucklers with scary drop-offs and of course there were zero guard rails! He can be a real grouch!
About only 105 miles later we arrived in Chicken whose 21 summer residents operate all the concessions in this odd little place. With little water and generators for electricity, this community has gold rush history too. The original 1880’s town is still here (all 15 buildings) open for tours daily. The old dredge is here too. The marketing for a town in the middle of nowhere with the name Chicken is way over the top, as you can imagine, plus all the tour busses stop here. If you wonder how it might have gotten the name ‘CHICKEN’, well it seems that the founding fathers could not spell the name of the local bird the Ptarmigan so they named it Chicken. They love outhouses, lots of them. You can play tin can golf at the Chicken Creek Country Club and nearly every building looks like it should be torn down! It’s all for fun and exists at a perfect point 80 miles from Tok and 105 miles from Dawson City on the worst road we have ever traveled.
The journey from Chicken to Tok was only some better. While the road was about 2/3rds paved, the pavement was in need of repair with heaves and pot holes. We were experts at lousy roads by the time we got to Tok.
We were very excited to arrive in Tok. It is three weeks and we will get mail! Not that we expect anything of meaning but after traveling this far we are feeling a bit disconnected.
Tok is basically a crossroads on the map at the intersection of the Highway to Anchorage and the highway to Fairbanks. The absolute first thing we did was wash the coaches and tow cars. All were brown from the journey inside & out.
Tok has one of all the essential things except campgrounds; they have 6 and nail salons they have zero. There are lots of other things they do not have in Tok, like anything to do. I did not ask about dog groomers as we have not gotten to that yet. Necessities are expensive & scares. One gallon of bottled water was $2.05. The campground is great. It’s called Sourdough which is used a lot up here. It means native as opposed to Chichaco which is a newcomer or someone who has never spent a winter in Alaska. They do a pancake toss for a free breakfast. They make dinner, Reindeer chili, at night. It’s cool but throwing a little reindeer sausage should not make it Reindeer Chili. We tried to see the sights but there really aren’t any so we settled for a free lunch at the local power company at their customer appreciation day. We were served burgers, dogs, sides plus Ice cream cones & cake. We struck it rich in Tok with a free lunch! Bill M. was extra happy because there was a full demo of the Tok Volunteer Fire department so he got to spend yet another hour talking shop. It turns out that these volunteer folks are the only first responders for 100 miles in any direction. When an emergency happens they are on their own for up to 3 hours. Now I feel like we are really out there!
We will get our mail & be off to Fairbanks where there is a bit more civilization.
Friday, June 12, 2009
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment